watch: how Dr. Martens turns leather scraps into shoes
Colèchi speaks to the global head of sustainability at Dr Martens about new range made from leather scraps: Genix Nappa
A few years ago, our team at Colèchi sat around our studio chatting about our Dr. Martens shoes. The usual observation was made: how long they’ve lasted and that we live in them! We marvelled at some of the second-hand pairs on Depop that were over a decade old but still looked great. In true Colèchi fashion—curious —we decided to check the tags to find out what materials our shoes were made from, particularly scrutinising the latest vegan range at the time.
While traditional Dr. Martens are made with leather, the vegan shoes were made from unspecified materials. We guessed it was pleather (plastic leather). Although these vegan options do not involve animal skin, they rely on fossil fuels, which contribute significantly to pollution. This raises an important question: can we consider these alternatives sustainable?
Three years on, our resident knitter Sarabi spoke to Tuze Mekik, the Global Head of Sustainability at Dr. Martens about their latest collection made from reclaimed leather, Genix Nappa. Tuze was able to explain exactly how their new leather range uses leather scraps and their collaboration with UK material innovation company Gen Phoenix. The latest launch is the next step in their journey to create durable, lower-impact footwear that will help support a more sustainable future for the brand.watch preview: how leather scraps are made into a new material
watch preview: how scrap leather is turned into a new material
In the full interview, they discuss their new Genix Napper shoe made from reclaimed leather using a hydrotanglement process. They explain how this closed loop material takes leather scraps from tanneries and transforms them into a durable new material.
Mekik discusses Dr Martens' efforts to improve leather traceability and sustainability in their supply chain. They also share details on how they experimented with the idea of second hand via a partnerships with Depop by reselling restored shoes, leading to the launch of their own ReWair program. When asked about scaling sustainability initiatives, Mekik believes trials with local farm leather show potential but need more development.
The interview offers a glimpse into how Dr Martens sets sustainability targets, forms working groups across functions, and integrates these goals into business strategy. Mekik shares both challenges like investment and regulation, and opportunities like educating consumers. They express optimism that innovations and technology will advance vegan leather options while maintaining durability. An insightful look at one brand's journey towards circular fashion.
fashion and farming
Learn more about fashion and farming with issue 1 of the Colèchi journal AGREENCULTURE.